replacing trailer wheel bearings with disc brakes


Great post Boofhead. Ok, so you've got everything you need to do the job. This part is tricky for the uninitiated & the reality of it is, that if you intend to maintain your equipment well then it should be replaced, its poor engineering practice to replace the bearing and not the sleeve. The adjusting nut should catch the inner bearing and its grease seal and free them from inside the hub.

\n"},{"title":"Clean and pack the inner bearings. Sclar lectures internationally on the ecological impact of vehicles and is active in promoting residential solar energy programs. This post may contain affiliate links, meaning I get a commisson if you decide to make a purchase through my links.

Shall slip out to the shed and make sure they are tight.

You'll just have to see as you go.

I placed the jack under the axle near the wheel and under one of the suspensions U-clamps. There are several items you will need to complete these tasks. Its just that you may not get the calipers back on right, which could cause your brake","noIndex":0,"noFollow":0},"content":"

If you have disc brakes, repacking wheel bearings isnt a difficult job.

trailer boat southwest lbs wheel brake axle electric kit

Tackled this very same job today and your instructions were fantastic (haven't road tested the trailer yet though! Next was to acquire the right tools and supplies for the job. The outside bearing is now accessible.

The risk is bending the axle, but I think its worth it for the increase in safety. I plan to take the trailer out for short test drives and will be monitoring the axle temperatures via my EEZRV TPMS when underway and with an infra-red temp gun at stops.

When I hit bearing from behind the first time to try & knock it out, some bits flew out & hit me on chin & caused bleeding straight away - it cut badly.

Geeze mate if I knew school was involved I would have skipped it! Glasses are a must. Now that is a nightmare!! If it won't budge this is where you learn the lessons of hard knocks & realise all that gobbledegook about "Maintenance" might actually have some credit to it. ","thumb":{"src":"https://www.dummies.com/wp-content/uploads/131162.image3.jpg","width":1,"height":1},"image":{"src":"https://www.dummies.com/wp-content/uploads/131161.image2.jpg","width":0,"height":0},"content":"

As you can see in the above figures, the bearings are usually tapered roller bearings, not ball bearings.

\n"},{"title":"Check the grease in the spaces between the bearings. NOTE: Some of the above items may be available in a kit.

As you can see in the above figures, the bearings are usually tapered roller bearings, not ball bearings. You may need to reef on the bolts & if things are not stable under there you could end up with your head becoming a new winged keel attachment to your hull. There's one more thing you should do before you get stuck into tearing things off your pride and joys ride. I'm fortunate enough to have proper wheel chocks for my work, but timbers or even sand bags will be better than nothing.

You want it to be nice and yucky. It is a castellated lock nut held on with a split pin (Same as your prop nut) Remove the split pin & then undo the nut. Find a hollow pipe or a large socket from a socket wrench set that has roughly the same diameter as the seal.

Every two years Ive had them repack the grease, replace the seals and inspect the bearings and brakes. When I bought the boat from Ulladulla and drove it home to Sydney the bearings gave way and I had to replace them.

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Skip this step if you have a floating drum.

\n"},{"title":"Slide the outer bearing, with the washer in front of it, off the spindle. ","thumb":{"src":"https://www.dummies.com/wp-content/uploads/131164.image5.jpg","width":1,"height":1},"image":{"src":"https://www.dummies.com/wp-content/uploads/131163.image4.jpg","width":0,"height":0},"content":"

This forces the grease into the bearing and out the other end. Remove the wheel & place it under the trailer for a safety stop. This is about the hardest bit of the job.

Mine has a plastic cap held on with tape.

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To fit the new grease seal into place properly, slide it in evenly; otherwise, it will bend or break and youll lose your grease.

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Find a hollow pipe or a large socket from a socket wrench set that has roughly the same diameter as the seal. The new seal should end up flush with the outside of the hub or slightly inside it.

\n"},{"title":"Carefully reassemble everything in reverse order. Unscrew the axle nut, remove D washer and pull the hub slightly forward to remove the outer bearing.

Mine is a knock in type that needs to be gently tapped from side to side, it will work its way out as you alternately tap at 180 degree. Deckee Pty Ltd Its just that you may not get the calipers back on right, which could cause your brakes to malfunction. Mine were not so I didn't re-fit or replace them as the pad & calliper design retains the pads without the aid of a ridiculous pair of tiny springs.

We're not gonna play with welders here, this size bearing will pop out with a little tap or two. Now you can see the inside bearing.

She has appeared on hundreds of radio and TV shows, including NBC's Today show and the NBCNightly News. Use the diagram in Step 3 to help you get everything back on correctly. Sclar is also the author of Buying a Car For Dummies. ","_links":{"self":"https://dummies-api.dummies.com/v2/authors/8944"}}],"_links":{"self":"https://dummies-api.dummies.com/v2/books/"}},"collections":[],"articleAds":{"footerAd":"

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"},"articleType":{"articleType":"Step by Step","articleList":null,"content":[{"title":"Jack up the car and remove a wheel.

nice work on the tutorial, For the sake of a few extra dollars i would suggest buying a set of jackstands to support the trailer whilst doing any work where part of your body is under it. I tried to move it with hammer & chisel but it didn't move.

Disclaimer: Im not a certified RV technician or mechanic. If you have drum brakes, go right ahead and repack the bearings yourself. The bolt actually tightens on the sleeve, not the calliper.

I did this by removing one wheel at a time. Once the hub is removed the rear or inside seal should either be left on the axle shaft or it may still be inside the hub.

just grind down the inner race that is stuck on the axle, dont go overboard, a little at a time. Now, back off the brakes on the adjuster at the front of the trailer.

Dont wipe off the grease! Classic Accessories PermaPRO Lightweight Ripstop and Water Repellent Cover, for 24' - 27' Trailer Aid Camco Plus' Tandem Tire Changing Ramp with 5.5-Inch Lift, Black (21003), BIG RED T41202 Torin Steel Jack Stands: 12 Ton (24,000 lb) Capacity, Red, 1 Pair, Thinkware X800 Dash Cam + Multi Camera (Side and Rear) Installation, Aolithium 100Ah LiFEPO4 Battery Demo & Review *Updated* New Model, Testing Out My New 3000W Motomaster Eliminator Pure Sine Inverter, 9 More RV Product Review Updates after Longer Term Usage, 7 Pin Tow Cable Charging Tests using Lithium RV Batteries, Guta 8 Tire RV TPMS Install & Review + Longer Term Update, Handy Mod to Keep My Truck Starter Batteries Charged Up When Parked, Lithium Battery Giveaway (Physical Pick Up Only) 3 Used Lion Energy UT1300s, Nature's Beauty Thread - Post Your Pictures, Thinkware X800 Dash Cam + Multi Cam Installation, Aolithium 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery Demo & Review, Lithium Battery Giveaway - 3 Used Lion Energy UT1300s, Butt connectors (waterproof and shrinkable), Lift axle under U-clamp using 20-ton bottle jack and remove the wheel, Remove hub dust cover with a rubber mallet, Remove axle nut retaining clip and unscrew thenut, Slide the brake drum forward and remove the D washer and outer bearing, Wipe off all the old grease and clean brake drum, Undo the 4 11/16ths inch bolts holding the brake assembly on the axle, Cut the pair for electric brake power wires and remove the assembly, Install new brake assembly (There are left and right-hand pairs), Add anti-seize compound and torque nuts to 45-70 ft/lbs, Crimp wires with butt connectors and shrink with heat, Tape wires and dress leads away from the wheel, Remove bearing races from the hub with a brass drift punch, Clean out the inside hub surfaces and lube slightly, Add a light coating of grease inside the hub, Pack bearings with grease and install into races, Drive in new axle seal using race driver disc, Lightly coat spindle with grease and mount the drum, Preload axle nut to 50 ft/lbs while spinning the hub, Release nut torque while holding hub stationary, Finger tighten axle nut and back off slightly and install the retainer clip, Check hub play should have slight movement in and out, Coat axleend with grease and install the dust cover, Adjust brake shoes with brake spoon tool for slight drag, Torque wheel in star pattern 20-25, 50-60, and 100-120 ft/lbs. Make sure that you work the grease into every gap in the bearing.

Trailer Bearing and Brake Service parts/supplies. If its frozen to the disc or axle mount plate a gentle knock with your hammer should budge it. Remember, they are meant to be a free moving part inside the calliper & if they are not then chances are your brakes will not work effectively or even not at all. Sometimes a little bit of heat can help too. To fit the new grease seal into place properly, slide it in evenly; otherwise, it will bend or break and youll lose your grease. beer) was spot on. bearing

If there is any doubt a large block of timber with a surface area at least twice what the jack base is under the jack is advised. Thankfully my hubs, brake drum, and axle spindles still looked to be in great shape. As long as you can screw the bolts all the way out all is good.

Try periodically with a hammer and cold chisel until it cracks.

It also pays to have a hand on the front of the hub to stop it flying off. Gloves are also a very good idea but I can't stress enough the importance of a good pair of clear safety glasses. once the wheel is off, a good additional safety back up is to place the wheel under the trailer so if it does fall of the jack the axle & trailer frame won't hit the ground. Jack the trailer so the tyre is off the ground about an inch. You have gone out of your way to help others - very decriptive and informative. The first task was to jack up the trailer and pull the wheels to get a good look at the condition of my wheel bearings, hubs, and brakes. Thanks for the praise guys, hope it helps someone out.

Boofhead. Upon thorough inspection, I decided both the bearings and brakes were due to be replaced. If you have drum brakes, go right ahead and repack the bearings yourself.

I found the brake assemblies locally and ordered the other pieces from SummitRacing.com. If its free it might fall out, remove it if you can but don't worry if it stays in the hub. At this time, you have to decide whether youre going to remove the inner bearings to check and pack them.

Glasses are a must. Be sure that the grease fills the races inside the hub where the bearing fits. Follow these steps to repack the wheel bearings for drum brakes:

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If you have disc brakes, repacking wheel bearings isnt a difficult job. Grab your wheel brace & "Loosen" the wheel nuts. Whether it's to pass that big test, qualify for that big promotion or even master that cooking technique; people who rely on dummies, rely on it to learn the critical skills and relevant information necessary for success.

Maybe to save a buck or just because you want to add a feather to your cap. With the flat, smooth side of the seal toward you, place the seal in the hub opening, and use the pipe or socket to move it into the hub gently and evenly. Take you right hand, firmly grasp your manly testies & grunt the following workshop oath. "When I'm done and all is good, I'll tell me mates I knew I could. and sprayed off the brake surfaces. Next, there is a retaining clip holding the axle nut in place (Some axles use a cotter pin). That's right, doesn't matter what you do the callipers need to come off, so you might as well at least check the pads. Working with hammers (on bearings especially), Brake discs and some of the components that make up the axle / tyre group are usually cast steel or iron. So when you've got the callipers out, take the time to free up the sleeves if they are frozen inside the calliper & ensure you apply some lubricant when reinstalling them. Inox is still my #1 choice for cleaning & maintaining fishing gear though. Return Springs (Goes on the arms, you will notice I didn't replace my broken one as I'm still waiting for it to arrive at the shop), Circlip (May not be required if yours are in good condition), Remove Wheel & Wheel Hub (The big round thing).

Better to take my mechanical advice (As plain as it is) than to listen to my fishing advice, you'd end up with zeros.

Sclar lectures internationally on the ecological impact of vehicles and is active in promoting residential solar energy programs. The pictures and labelling are very helpful so go to the top of the class. Heck, I was saving a bunch of money by doing the work so may as well treat myself. Now you can remove the entire hub assembly from the shaft.

You might as well go back to the ironing if you don't have the essentials. Once thats removed you can tap it gently out. Dont smoke when cleaning the bearings!

Spoke to mechanic down the road today & he said to keep grinding & use hammer & chisel until it splits open.

If the rollers are gouged or bluish in color, or if you can almost slip the rollers out of their place, replace the bearing and its race, which is pressed into the hub.

Found a trailer repairer who found a second hand axle for me & fitted it in a few hours, I was very grateful for the speedy repair, until I got 3 blocks from his workshop & one of the wheels flew off, side swiped a parked car & missed a female pedestrian by inches whilst it shot past her at shoulder height doing about 70 klms/hr.the colour drained from her face instantly & she had to sit down to recover, so did I! ","thumb":{"src":null,"width":0,"height":0},"image":{"src":null,"width":0,"height":0},"content":"

Dont slide the drum completely off the spindle. Organise yourself an area to lay all the bits out as they come off.

All Rights Reserved. I will have a go at anything but it usually costs me more in the long run!

You may want to invest in some thin, disposable plastic gloves for this job.

Use the technique described for cleaning and packing your outer bearings. repairs trailer brakes mk7 Make sure the ground is level, firm & can support the jack & the weight of the trailer.

Any advice how to remove the bloody thing? See Affiliate Disclosure. I'm fortunate enough to have proper wheel chocks for my work, but timbers or even sand bags will be better than nothing. If it hits the ground you'll probably damage the wheel stud threads. She has appeared on hundreds of radio and TV shows, including NBC's Today show and the NBCNightly News. I want to be clearthough it is considered a no-no by some folks.

The old grease needed to be cleaned off. But its really not that big a deal to replace it if you have the right tools. ","thumb":{"src":null,"width":0,"height":0},"image":{"src":null,"width":0,"height":0},"content":"

If the rollers are gouged or bluish in color, or if you can almost slip the rollers out of their place, replace the bearing and its race, which is pressed into the hub.

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Sclar is also the author of Buying a Car For Dummies. Bearings are VERY brittle, if you hit one with a hammer & shatter it the pieces will move at around the speed of light, generally right into the nearest soft tissue), Bearings Spherical Tapered Roller Bearings (Two part bearing, a tapered cone part & the roller part). It's easy! Once everything was clean, I could carefully inspect it for damage and/or excessive wear. Races or sometimes referred to as cups are a thin metal band of hardened steel that the bearings ride in. Over the years Ive relied on the Keystone dealer where we bought our Cougar fifth wheel to perform the task. Awesome that you have gone to all that trouble in explaining to people like me who are hopeless at this sort of stuff. Also, when you repack the bearings with fresh grease, you dont want any old grease spoiling the new stuff. ALWAYS chock the wheels on the opposite side your working on. New trailer brakes will get adjusted after 200 miles. There are several issues you need to take care with when performing these tasks. TIP once the wheel is off, a good additional safety back up is to place the wheel under the trailer so if it does fall of the jack the axle & trailer frame won't hit the ground. Think of & treat them like tough glass, they shatter, splinter & in most cases explode spectacularly when the are hit hard enough. Position the jack so that its square & the base is flat on the ground. If you spot anything wrong here, feel free to contact me or leave a comment on the YouTube video and I will update the article. Wipe off excess grease around the outside of the hole so that it doesnt fly around when the cars in motion, possibly damaging your brakes. Take care if you need to "Encourage" something to move, dislodge or come apart with a hammer.

Then slide the brake drum off the spindle exposing the electric trailer brake assembly.

On larger industrial bearings we would sometimes run a weld around the inside of the sleeve. I located the official Dexter axle service manual online which was a valuable source of information and part numbers. Cleaning the grease away will reveal the hub nut. Don't knock it too far sidways or you may damage the hub &/or cap. Ill also be checking the lug nut and brake nut torque after 30 miles and 100 miles.

Generally speaking, if the outer bearings look okay, the inner ones are okay, too. Serious injuries can happen to if jacks fall or fail.

Not only will it save me a fair chunk of money I feel I will benefit from knowing exactly how my trailers wheel bearings, brakes, and axles operate. ","thumb":{"src":null,"width":0,"height":0},"image":{"src":null,"width":0,"height":0},"content":"

Use the technique described for cleaning and packing your outer bearings.

Then put your bearing down on your clean rag. Amazon Page where Ive put together a special categoryforTrailer Bearing and Brake Service parts/supplies.

Many of the roller bearing surfaces showed signs of pitting and the brakes pads had very little life left in them. Instead, screw the adjusting nut back in again, pull the drum toward you, and push it back.

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